Albania’s Picture Postcard Beaches

Southern Albania’s dramatic coastline is yet untouched by the blight of modern tourism. Communism brought few benefits to the country, but it did spare the area, blessed with a sea, sand and mountains, from the ravages of package holidays.

While development is gathering pace, it’s still easy to stumble across beautiful sweeps of shoreline without a grey high-rise hotel in sight and devoid of tacky seafront roads filled with overpriced souvenir shops and hordes of sunburned tourists staggering from bar to kebab shop.

Instead, you can admire craggy peaks plunging into an impossibly turquoise sea, and relax along the riviera’s tranquil sandy beaches.

On a clear day, you can glimpse the outline of Corfu and other Greek islands, and enjoy the guilty please of schadenfreude, knowing that others are sweating it out in offices or ducking touts in better known, crowded resorts.

The beaches of Dhermi, or Drymades in Greek, 50km south of Vlora, combine rugged beauty with good quality, discreet accommodation, excellent seafood restaurants and a smattering of bars.

Situated down a dirt track off the ‘main road’ between Vlora and Saranda, you’ll find a peaceful stretch of sand with two bars and

Drymades Beach Resort, a collection of comfortable chalets in a small wooded area with a self-service restaurant.

Opposite the chalets is one of the most laid back and relaxing bars you’ll find anywhere on the planet.

You can enjoy a morning coffee before taking a few strides and dipping into the warm sea, while away the afternoon playing chess, or sip sublime cocktails as the suns sets.

An achingly cool blend of music also puts this venue head and shoulders above other watering holes in the area, which lean towards playing Euro club music at intolerable volumes. But there is ample space along the various beaches to avoid the din.

And if partying the night away isn’t your thing, the bar opposite Drymades Beach Resort usually places candles out on the sand, allowing you to relax with your drink and enjoy the star-lit sky.

A couple of good restaurants serving delicious seafood are a short drive away from the beach and are well worth the trip as the cuisine of the self-service restaurant is a little limited.

If you tire quickly of beachside activities, the attractive city of Saranda, the Roman ruins at Butrint and the beautiful, historic town of Gjirokastra are within easy reach by car.

Dhermi will undoubtedly become a major destination for tourist in the coming years. For those who enjoy their beach holidays served chilled, pencil in a visit soon.

Rooms at Drymades Beach Resort are 40 to 50 euro with breakfast. Booking is advisable in the summer and can be made by calling Tani on +355693646058. (Lawrence Marzouk / balkaninsight.com)